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Pintxos in San Sebastian
San Sebastian has been at the top of my travel list for a long time now. And now I’ve been it’s still there, I’m already planning to come back! Beautiful sandy beaches and amazing food, this is a must-do experience – especially if you’re even remotely into food.
This is one of the top places in the world to eat and best of all for the most part it’s very affordable and there’s lots for you to try! The region’s speciality is a form of tapas called pintxos, named after the skewers that often hold each creation together. Bars around the old town in San Sebastian feature an array of colourful creations laid out on the bar for you to choose from. The idea is that you have a drink and one or two pintxos of what each bar does best before moving on.
Pintxos bars to try:
– La Cuchara is one of the best rated bars, the scallop with jamon is on my must try list for next time
– Bar Zeruko features fabulous artistic creations across the bar, make sure you order the specialty of smoked cod (bacalao a la hoguera)
– Casa Gandarias for tender sirloin
– Munto had a delicious and simple mushroom dish, and a plate of prawn skewers so fresh and delicious I couldn’t stop eating them
– Borda Berri for risotto de hongos (mushroom with orzo), definitely one of our favourites!
– Goiz Argi for the delicious prawn skewers (brocheta de gambas), one of the best dishes we tried
– La Cepa is one of the more famous bars, known for it’s jamon
– And finish off your pintxos crawl with cheesecake from La Vina. Also available to take away if you can’t manage to eat it right away.
Map of Places to go in San Sebastian
Tips for San Sebastian
– try Txakoli, a young white wine typical of the Basque Country, is served extremely cold and poured from a height to force fizz into the liquid. It’s deliciously acidic. A glass will set you back €1.50.
– Look around at what others are having if you aren’t sure of the specialty of the bar, often it’s a hot dish that needs to be ordered from the blackboard
– Most of the staff won’t speak English but they’re good humoured and pointing and saying ‘por favore’ will get you a long way
– Generally you won’t know how much anything costs but it’s all pretty good value (most pintxos are between €1-€3) so just enjoy and remember it will be worth it.
– Don’t stay for too long in one place, try and limit yourself to two dishes per place so you can visit as many as possible.
– Once you’ve made your way around the best pintxos places try a restaurant instead. The tasting menu at Fuegro Negro is supposed to be very good. Their signature dish of makobe with txips (a wagyu beef slider on a tomato bun with banana chips) was interesting but not particularly memorable. One of their dishes on the tasting menu, “Paloma, tiro, PUM!” is a pigeon breast with a licorice bullet and beetroot “blood” spatter over the plate.
– Walk around the glorious beachfront or up Mount Urgell to build up an appetite
– Get a delicious sandwich (bocadillo) takeaway for the trip back from Taberna Dakara or for your trek up Mount Urgell
– The locals seem to eat with their hands before throwing the napkin on the floor (seeing them strewn on the floor is supposed to be a sign of a good place) but I wouldn’t stress about using a plate as you’ll probably stand out in other ways too
– Wander out of the old town and across the river to explore nearby Gros where the locals go – Hidalgo 56 and Bodega Donostorria are both very well regarded. Visit La Gintoneria for a refreshing and delicious gin and tonic from their impressive selection.
Check out this website before you go to plan your pinxtos crawl by finding each bar’s specialty.
Escape in Budapest
Looking for something different to do in Budapest? Sign up for Claustrophilia, Budapest’s “best” live room escape challenge where you race against the clock to get out of a room by solving puzzles. It’s actually one of lots of escape games that have popped up in the last few years in Budapest, making the most of the city’s dilapidated buildings in a similar way to the ruin bars. Claustrophilia is one of the more popular ones, and is currently one of Budapest’s top ranking activities on TripAdvisor.
See the Guardian’s article on Claustrophilia
For more unusual things to do in Budapest read my previous post
Try the Black Squid Buns at this cool Paris Bakery
Hip Parisian baker Gontran Cherrier’s boulanger in Montmatre houses his colourful creations – red buns made with paprika, zesty green rocket flavoured rolls and the strikingly black squid ink buns that I’m dying to try. Also popular are a rye and red miso bread, chocolate and sizchuan peppercorn brioche and savoury tarts.
Gontran Cherrier has also opened shops in Shanghai and Tokyo where I’m sure his culinary creations are right at home.
Boulangerie Gontran Cherrier is located at 22 Rue Caulaincourt 75018 Paris, France
Things to do in Melbourne
Visit cool bakery Baker D. Chirico
Wander down one of the many laneways like Degraves Street which is lined with great cafes
Find a funky bar like the Croft Institute, an old Melbourne favourite loosely science themed and hidden down a series of laneways so you’ll never find it unless you know where you’re going.
Pick up a great souvenir at Rose St Artists Market or Camberwell Sunday Market
Check out some of the impressive graffiti and street art found all around the city.
Indulge at Hutong Dumpling Bar
See what’s on at Australian Centre For The Moving Image (ACMI) in Federation Square
Things to do in Budapest
Known as the Paris of the East and the Pearl of the Danube, Budapest has a lot to live up to. Famous for thermal baths, beautiful architecture and a troubled history it is actually made up of two cities, Buda to the West of the river and Pest to the East and it’s been one of those destinations that I’ve been wanting to go to forever.
Find all the locations listed below on my Budapest Map
Things to Do:
- Thermal Baths – Budapest is famous for it’s medicinal waters so don’t leave without visiting one of the beautiful bath houses – the most well known ones are the Szechenyi and Gellert baths. One of the most magical experiences of my life was being in the steamy outdoor pool in the Szechenyi while it was snowing. Remember to take a towel and thongs (unlike we did!) You might also want to consider the Rudas Baths for a nighttime experience as they are open on Saturdays from 10pm-4am.
- Cave Chapel – there are quite a lot of caves in and around Budapest but this grotto cavern in Gellert Hill has been a home, a monastery, a hospital and is now a church under the care of the monks of the Pauline order. It sounds magical and I was devastated when we had to choose between going there or missing our flight. Next time! Cost 500 HUF
- Invisible Exhibition – an hour long experience where you will be guided by blind people through a series of rooms in total darkness. You can also take part in an Invisible Dinner or an Invisible Massage. Cost 1450 HUF (cheaper on Mondays)
- Hospital in the Rock – a secret military hospital built into a cave in Castle hill that was converted to a nuclear bunker in the ’60s and is now a museum. This was a pretty unique experience, we were hoping it would be either kitsch or fascinating and it managed to be a bit of both. The gift shop is great – a random collection of cheap military surplus that make pretty interesting souvenirs. Cost HUF3600
Slightly Out of Town:
- Children’s Railway – a unique railway that is operated almost entirely by children. Located on the outskirts of Budapest this is a little bit of a trek to get to so save it for a nice day where you can appreciate the scenery of the Buda hills. The railway operates every day between May and August but is closed on Mondays for the rest of the year.
- Memento Park – a little way outside the city this park features the Communist statues that used to be scattered around the city. It’s definitely worth doing the tour if you’re going to make the trip out here – it wasn’t as big as we expected and it helps if you understand more about the statues and what life in Hungary was like under Communism. Cost 1500 HUF for entry to the park only or book a bus there for 4900 including entry fee with a 33% discount for online booking.
Places to Eat and Drink
Try gulyas (goulash soup) or the classic meaty stews pörkölt and the creamy red paprikas.
Restaurants
- Book Cafe – located in the beautiful Alexandra book store
- Chess Restaurant – an upmarket hotel restaurant – the food is quite experimental (my pork dish came with cocoa potato doughnuts with a caramel sauce).
- Marxim – communist-themed pizzeria, kitsch decor and known for cheap tasty food and beer.
- Most – underground cellar bistro, one of the few places in Budapest where you can get brunch
Coffee/Tea houses
- Gerbeaud Cafe – the most famous cafe in Budapest, it is however quite expensive and posh so skip it unless you really want to splash out
- Coffee Cat – cute cafe that’s serious about coffee
- Printa – funky cafe and printing studio serving high quality speciality coffee
Something Sweet
- Try a flower shaped gelato made on site at Gelarto Rosa
- Indulge your sweet tooth with brightly coloured candy or cakes from the Sugar Shop
Bars
One of the most unique things about Budapest are the many ruin bars, funky atmospheric pubs that have been built in reclaimed abandoned buildings. Each kert, as they are known locally, is unique but they all have a great atmosphere. Often outdoors in courtyards and gardens they are best experienced in summer.
- Szimpla kert – the original and renown as still being one of the best ruin pubs in Budapest, they also hold markets during the day
- Fogashaz is a smaller, quieter ruin pub option.
- Instant – arty underground ruin pub on Budapest’s theatre strip with lots of great cafes and pubs
- Corvin Teto is an open air rooftop club located on a massive roof terrace on top of a department store.
- Lampas – an enchanting cellar bar that often has live music.
- A38 bar – a club/bar inside a decommissioned Ukranian stone hauler ship from the sixties. Voted the best bar in the world by Lonely Planet readers recently so don’t expect to be the only ones to know about it.
White Rabbit Gallery
I was lucky enough when living in Sydney to have one of the most fascinating art galleries I’ve ever been to right at the end of my street. The White Rabbit Gallery is a collection of Chinese contemporary art that contains some very impressive pieces in a very impressive space. Located in Chippendale near Central Station, the gallery is free to visit and is set over four floors with is a delightful teahouse on the ground floor. They also screen China-related movies on Sundays in their theatrette. One of the best features is the knowledgeable and friendly staff who are ready to explain each piece so that you can fully appreciate it. Definitely worth checking out, you won’t regret it! And while you’re in Chippendale head to the legendary Cafe Giulia. They do amazing coffee, great breakfast and their homemade raspberry bagels are to die for!
Places to go in Bournemouth
Bournemouth was recently voted as one of Europe’s best beaches. Unfortunately I went there on a cold and miserable Spring weekend so our time was spent mostly trying to find somewhere nice to eat. And we failed!
The locals are lovely but I’m afraid standards aren’t very high, the recommendations from our hotel for brunch were a little dire. With much enthusiasm they suggested the local Wetherspoons, a pretty average although ‘Beatles themed’ caff and the ‘amazing’ Patisserie Valerie, leaving us feeling a little sad and maybe a little like the snobbish Londoners we are.
Bournemouth’s glory may have faded somewhat now that overseas holidays are so affordable and times are tough and most places tend to be quite outdated but it does have a lovely beach lined with colourful beach huts and a pretty park leading down to the pier and it’s interesting in a retro way. Be sure to read the signs on the pier – they tell amusing stories from it’s history such as the fact that at one stage construction of the pier was entrusted to a ‘visiting tourist’ who boasted it would be “a trifling occupation,” and a recollection of the old man who used to ride his bicycle off the pier in winter for the amusement of onlookers.
It does sound like there are some gems hidden in this quirky seaside town but do expect that everywhere will be a bit dated and in need of a refurb, and the good places may be busy or booked out.
For Icecream: Giggi Gelateria
For a nice dinner: Gilbey’s Restaurant
For coffee and cake: Espresso Kitchen
For breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea: Frieda’s Tearoom
Places to go in Ho Chi Minh
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